企画展 いま、「女性」はどう生きるか ―キャリア・結婚・装い・命―

Corsets− Slim down for “love”

Corsets as problematic in England

In the late 19th century, when China was becoming aware of the harm of foot binding, the harm of corsets was attracting attention in England.

In the West, women’s garments had been loose-fitting from the time of ancient Greece to the end of the Middle Ages. However, waistlines became a requirement from the mid-12th century, and the full-fledged corset appeared by the 16th century. Women’s movements were restricted, and the cinched waist gave them a weak “feminine” look. Weak and expensive-looking women allowed men the opportunity to show their financial prowess, since only men with assets could provide for them.

  • Heibonsha (Ed.) Sinban Sekai Mono Jiten. Heibonsha, 2017.
  • Toya, Riina. Shitagi No Tanjou: Vikutoriachou No Shakaishi. Kodansha, 2000.
  • Tohda, Masahiro. Tensoku No Hakken: Aru Eikoku Josei to Shinmatsu No Chugoku. Taishukan Shoten, 2004.
  • Iwata, Yoriko, and Kawabata, Ariko. Zusetsu Eikoku Redii No Sekai. Kawade shobo shinsha, 2011.

What is a corset?

A corset is a type of women’s undergarment that was used to shape the body from the chest to the waist. The framework was made of whale baleen or steel, while other parts were made of cotton, silk, nylon, or rubber cloth. They were sold at clothing stores.

“Bee-like hips” were all the rage

In the 1870s and 1880s in England, by tightening corsets, the bee-like style became popularized, with the chest and hips protruding and the waist so thin that it looked as if it would break.
In the late 19th century, industrialization brought about rapid affluence and corsets spread to the lower classes.

Women’s clothing from a female traveler’s point of view

British traveler Isabella Bird wrote, “As a set-off against the miseries of foot-binding is the extreme comfort of a Chinese women’s dress in all classes, no corsets or waist-bands, or constraints of any kind.” This sentence offers a glimpse of the tightness and inconvenience of British women’s clothing.

A tool for “gaining men’s affection?”

What were the reasons for women's obsession with a slim waist at the time?

Corsets were widely used in the West, but the topic under discussion is the example of England in the 1870s to 1880s, when waist tightening was particularly prevalent.

Mothers and female teachers tried to get girls to wear corsets to obtain a narrow waist. Middle class women and maidens also worked hard to tighten their corsets, but it was the women of the upper class who pursued particularly slender waists, as the garments were not suitable for strenuous work. Young women had limited access to men at that time; thus, they competed with each other to have thinner waists to win the hearts of men at social gatherings.

  • Toya, Riina. Shitagi No Tanjou: Vikutoriachou No Shakaishi. Kodansha, 2000.
  • Iwata, Yoriko, and Kawabata, Ariko. Zusetsu Eikoku Redii No Sekai. Kawade shobo shinsha, 2011.
The reason why corsets were preferred
I did not want to lose even the tiniest bit of my husband’s affection, so I decided to go for tight lacing.

A woman who had undergone the strong tightening of a corset (tight lacing) endured great pain, stating “I couldn’t stand the mere thought of my husband liking another woman’s body shape.”
This is an indication that men at that time were attracted to thin waists.

In order to get a good marriage partner...

Against the backdrop of economic recession, marriage was more difficult for British women in the 1870s and 1880s than ever before. Women took serious consideration of beauty to find a partner, but makeup was considered inappropriate for well-bred women.
Thus, they obtained a thin waist and tried their best to be considered attractive. In the controversy over corsets, many men also criticized overly thin waists, and stated that they did not request that their wives narrow their waists. Nonetheless, women desired narrow waists.

Sudden death due to tightening...! The dangers of corsets

Women at the time suffered from many discomforts due to the strong tightening of their waists with corsets.

Like foot binding, corsets had a serious negative impact on women’s health by constricting the body so tightly. The ideal waist at this time was extremely thin (42.5 cm to 45 cm), and the innumerable harmful effects included misaligned internal organs, skeletal distortion, headaches, back pain, indigestion, loss of appetite, breathing difficulties, poor circulation, and cold hands and feet.

Newspapers during this period reported cases of sudden death due to the tightness of corsets, and doctors warned women through books, articles, and lectures, but women who wanted to live fashionably ignored these warnings.

Anonymous Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons NEW PATHFINDER NO. 2; PHYSIOLOGY FOR YOUNG PEOPLE ADAPTED TO INTERMEDIATE CLASSES AND COMMEN SCHOOLS.
page 84, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

A new form of dress sought by the Rational Dress Society.

The 19th century dress reform movements. Women took action in favor of clothing that would allow them to move freely.

The harm of foot binding and corsets was highlighted at approximately the same time. Kang Youwei attempted to establish the Anti-Footbinding Society in 1883, while the Rational Dress Society which proposed practical and comfortable clothing in England was formed in 1881. The Times, a British newspaper, also discussed both the dangers of foot binding and waist tightening.

The Rational Dress Society reformed women's clothing with its “Five Requirements of a Perfect Dress,” which set forth rules for clothing that is easy to move in. Unlike the anti-foot binding movement, which focused on foreign missionaries and male intellectuals, the association's main members were women.
Lady Herberton, in particular, was active in this movement, riding a bicycle wearing the clothes devised by the association in her capacity as a viscountess.

  • Toya, Riina. Shitagi No Tanjou: Vikutoriachou No Shakaishi. Kodansha, 2000.
  • Iwata, Yoriko, and Kawabata, Ariko. Zusetsu Eikoku Redii No Sekai. Kawade shobo shinsha, 2011.
  • “Chinese Women and Footbinding” The Times (London, England), July 13, 1895
  • “Footbinding in China” The Times (London, England), January 20, 1911
  • Sin especificar, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Freedom of
movement
Absence of
pressure over any
part of the body
Not more weight
than is necessary
for warmth, and both
weight and warmth
evenly distributed
Grace and beauty
combined with
comfort and
convenience
Not departing too
conspicuously from
the ordinary dress
of the time
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